Things to Do in Bismarck in May

This is the absolute best month for tackling the trails that climb the bluffs along the Missouri River, like those in the McDowell Dam Recreation Area or across the river in Mandan. The biting insects haven't hatched in force yet, the prairie rattlesnakes are still sluggish, and the temperatures are cool enough to make the steep climbs enjoyable rather than punishing. You'll get panoramic views of the wide, winding river valley without the summer haze, and the scent is all thawed earth, sage, and the faint sweetness of budding chokecherry bushes.

Exploring Bismarck's compact downtown core on foot is a May specialty. The historic buildings along Broadway (the art-deco Patterson Hotel, the sandstone block of the former Provident Life building) look their best in the gentle spring sun. The air carries the smell of coffee from the old-school shops mixed with the damp-earth scent from the newly-watered planters. This is when locals reclaim the sidewalks, so you'll get a feel for the city's pace and character without fighting through summer tourist throngs.

The well-known paddlewheel riverboats on the Missouri typically begin their season in late May, and catching one of the first cruises of the year is a local rite of spring. The river is often high and swift with snowmelt, making for a powerful, scenic ride. The air on the water is still fresh and cool, good for standing on the outer deck. You'll hear the deep-throated call of Canada geese and see bald eagles perched in the cottonwoods, all set to the rhythmic splash of the paddlewheel (a sound that embodies river travel history).

Rent a car and drive the backroads southwest of Bismarck, towards the tiny town of New Salem and the surrounding ranchlands. In May, the rolling hills are coming alive, and you'll see newborn calves in the pastures and hawks circling on the thermal winds that rush across the open land. The sound out here is just the wind and your tires on gravel. Stop at the Enchanted Highway market if it's open for a slice of homemade pie and a chance to see the world's largest scrap metal sculptures against the big, changing sky.

North Dakota's art-deco capitol building, known locally as the "Skyscraper on the Prairie," sits amid large grounds good for a leisurely May stroll. The reflecting pool is usually filled. The dozens of American elm trees are leafing out. The 19-story tower looks sharp against the bright blue sky. Inside, the marble halls stay cool and quiet, smelling of polished stone and old paper. The free tours draw fewer visitors now than in summer. You might get a guide all to yourself.